Η Αγία Σοφία στην Κωνσταντινούπολη /Φωτογραφία: Η Καθημερινή
Στις 10 Ιουλίου το Ανώτατο Δικαστήριο της Τουρκίας αποφάσισε να απορρίψει την απόφαση με την οποία το 1935 η Αγία Σοφία στην Κωνσταντινούπολη μετατράπηκε από τζαμί σε μουσείο. Αυτό προκάλεσε έντονη κριτική, άμεσα και διεθνώς. Ο υπουργός Εξωτερικών των Ηνωμένων Πολιτειών της Αμερικής Μάικ Πομπέο παρότρυνε την Τουρκία να αλλάξει την απόφασή της. Στην Κυριακάτικη προσευχή, ο Πάπας Φραγκίσκος είπε ότι οι σκέψεις του «είναι στην Αγία Σοφία» και ότι «πονάει πολύ» με την εξέλιξη αυτή. Η UNESCO – την οποία η Τουρκία αγνόησε παντελώς σχετικά με την απόφαση, μολονότι το μνημείο και ο ιστορικός περίγυρός του τελούν υπό την Παγκόσμια Πολιτιστική Κληρονομιά ζήτησε διαβούλευση με τις Τουρκικές Αρχές, το συντομότερο δυνατόν. Ο Τούρκος συγγραφέας Ορχάν Παμούκ δήλωσε ότι αυτή η μετατροπή αποστερεί από την Τουρκία το σημαντικότερο σύμβολο της κοσμικής τιμής της.
Είναι σαφές ότι η Αγία Σοφία θα είναι λιγότερο διαθέσιμη ως τζαμί από ότι ως μουσείο, ακόμη και αν ο Πρόεδρος Ερντογάν επιμένει ότι κάτι τέτοιο δεν ισχύει. Με το να πάψει να είναι πλέον μουσείο, η Αγία Σοφία αποστερείται του ρόλου της ως μνημείου παγκόσμιας κληρονομιάς, όπως διατυπώθηκε πρόσφατα. Σε ένα νορβηγικό podcast για τους μουσουλμάνους και το Ισλάμ, επισημάνθηκε, επίσης, ως ένα πολύ συγκεκριμένο πρόβλημα και η απώλεια σημαντικού τουριστικού εισοδήματος: σχεδόν τέσσερα εκατομμύρια τουρίστες επισκέφθηκαν πέρυσι το μνημείο της Αγίας Σοφίας, περισσότερο από κάθε άλλο αξιοθέατο στη χώρα.
Έρευνες δείχνουν ότι μια σαφής πλειοψηφία του πληθυσμού της Τουρκίας διάκειται θετικά υπέρ της αλλαγής του καθεστώτος της Αγίας Σοφίας. Μια τέτοια αλλαγή, ωστόσο, μπορεί να έχει πολύ αρνητικές συνέπειες στη φήμη της χώρας. Οι Οθωμανοί δεν συμπεριφέρθηκαν περισσότερο ή λιγότερο ηθικά από ότι άλλοι στρατοί και αυτοκρατορίες, όταν κατέλαβαν την Κωνσταντινούπολη το 1453. Είναι δε, αναμφίβολο το γεγονός ότι η Αγία Σοφία ήταν αρχικά Ορθόδοξος Χριστιανικός ναός και μετατράπηκε σε τζαμί ως αποτέλεσμα στρατιωτικής κατάκτησης. Αυτή είναι μια ζοφερή πραγματικότητα που ρίχνει σκοτεινή ιστορική σκιά στην εκ νέου μετατροπή της σε τζαμί σήμερα.
Η απόφαση του Κεμάλ Ατατούρκ να μετατρέψει την Αγία Σοφία από τζαμί σε μουσείο το 1935 οφειλόταν πιθανότατα σε πολλούς λόγους. Το ιστορικό αυτό κτίσμα ήταν τότε σε κακή κατάσταση και η Τουρκία θα μπορούσε έτσι να καθησυχάσει τους Έλληνες, ώστε να εξασφαλίσει ένα κοινό μέτωπο ενάντια σε μια πιθανή ιταλική προώθηση στο Αιγαίο πέλαγος. Επιπλέον, ο Ατατούρκ ενδιαφερόταν να διασφαλίσει την κοσμική δημοκρατία στην Τουρκία.
Ανεξαρτήτως κινήτρων, η απόφαση του Ατατούρκ εναρμονίστηκε με την ειρηνική συνύπαρξη και τη μετριοπάθεια. Αυτό δεν ήταν καθόλου λιγότερο απαραίτητο εκείνη τη στιγμή, όταν περισσότεροι από 100.000 Έλληνες ζούσαν ακόμη στην Κωνσταντινούπολη – μια σημαντικότατη μειονότητα που κρατήθηκε εκτός ανταλλαγής πληθυσμών μεταξύ Τουρκίας και Ελλάδας, σχεδόν δέκα χρόνια νωρίτερα. Αυτή η μειονότητα έχει σήμερα, δυστυχώς, σχεδόν αφανιστεί.
Η Αγία Σοφία είναι, δίχως σύγκριση, το πλέον διάσημο και υπέροχο δείγμα βυζαντινής αρχιτεκτονικής. Είναι δε γεγονός ότι, ολόκληρη η Ανατολική Ρωμαϊκή, ή Βυζαντινή, εποχή, είναι περιφρονημένη, τόσο ιστορικά όσο και στη γενική συνείδηση των ανθρώπων στην Ευρώπη. Ωστόσο, όχι μόνον το Ανατολικό τμήμα της Ρωμαϊκής Αυτοκρατορίας διήρκεσε πολύ περισσότερο από το αντίστοιχο δυτικό τμήμα, αλλά και περιέχει το κλειδί για την κατανόηση της μετάδοσης της αρχαίας γνώσης και των ανθρώπινων ιδανικών στην Αναγέννηση και αργότερα στη σύγχρονη εποχή.
Τέλος, το ζήτημα της Αγίας Σοφίας αφορά άμεσα και στη σχέση μεταξύ Ελλάδας και Τουρκίας. Ύστερα από πολλά χρόνια βελτιούμενων σχέσεων, η κατάσταση είναι και πάλι τεταμένη. Δεν έχουν περάσει πολλοί μήνες από τότε που οι δύο χώρες κινητοποίησαν δυνάμεις στα βόρεια, στα σύνορα του Έβρου, κατά την ένταση που προκλήθηκε από την προσφυγική κρίση. Αυτή η κατάσταση πόρρω απέχει από το να θεωρηθεί οριστικά παρελθόν, καθώς δόθηκε απλώς ανάπαυλα λόγω της γενικής καραντίνας που η πανδημία του κορωνοϊού επέβαλε παγκοσμίως: είναι σχεδόν αναμφίβολο ότι θα επιδεινωθεί και πάλι.
Ήδη, η Τουρκία δείχνει να επιχειρεί δοκιμαστική γεώτρηση σε τμήματα της Μεσογείου που η Ελλάδα δηλώνει ως ελληνικά ύδατα. Το ζήτημα της εξόρυξης φυσικού αερίου στην Ανατολική Μεσόγειο επηρεάζει σαφώς τα συμφέροντα ορισμένων άλλων χωρών, όπως το Ισραήλ, η Κύπρος και η Αίγυπτος, και απειλεί να κλονίσει την σταθερότητα ολόκληρης της περιοχής. Για να αποφευχθούν περαιτέρω αρνητικές εξελίξεις είναι απαραίτητο οι χώρες να σεβαστούν τα ιδιαίτερα ευαίσθητα ζητήματα αλλήλων, και να αποφύγουν την πολιτικοποίηση των κοινών και διαφορετικών πτυχών της ιστορίας τους. Δεν υπάρχει τίποτε καταλληλότερο στην κατεύθυνση αυτή από το να διατηρήσουν αμετάβλητα τα μουσεία που διαθέτουν.
** Ο Αλέξανδρος Ζλατάνος Ibsen είναι Πολιτικός Σύμβουλος για ζητήματα Εξωτερικής Πολιτικής στην Κοινοβουλευτική ομάδα του Συντηρητικού κόμματος (Høyre), στην Νορβηγία.
*** Mετάφραση από τα Νορβηγικά — απόδοση κειμένου: Παύλος Παναγιώτης
Bildet tatt under vaktskiftet ved den ukjente soldats grav i Aten.
Hellas feiretforrige uke 200 år som selvstendig stat. Tidspunktet for feiringen markerer begynnelsen på den greske frigjøringsrevolusjonen fra Det osmanske riket, som det greske folk hadde vært underlagt i flere hundre år, etter Konstantinopels fall i 1453. Grekere var underlagt et muslimsk styre, men beholdt sitt språk, sin kristne religion og sin – over tre tusen år gamle – identitet gjennom århundrene.
Motivasjonen for revolusjonen kan leses ut av revolusjonshelten Theodoros Kolokotronis’ foredrag til ungdommen i Pnyka, i Athen, 13. november 1838 – altså etter at Hellas hadde vunnet sin selvstendighet:
«Når vi bestemte oss for å starte revolusjonen, tenkte vi ikke på hvor mange vi var, hvilket militært utstyr vi hadde til disposisjon, eller hvilke festningsverk tyrkerne kontrollerte. Vi hørte heller ikke på vismenn som advarte oss med at vi kun disponerte tåpelige, små farkoster. Vi kjente frihetstrangen falle på oss alle som et regn, og vi alle – våre prester, forstandere, kapteiner, lærde og kjøpmenn, unge som gamle – ble enige om målet om å frigjøre oss.»
Det er riktig å si at 1821 markerer øyeblikket da grekerne stod opp og kjempet for sin kristne tro og for sitt hjemlands frihet. Det gir derfor mening å omtale den greske frigjøringen for et forsøk på politisk gjen-oppstandelse (gresk: «ep-anastasi») som reflekterer kristne troens hjerte, Kristi oppstandelse (gresk: «anastasi»).
I den greske tradisjonen er frihetsbegrepet som ligger til grunn for demokratiet hverken abstrakt eller uttrykk for de rettighetene vi i dag gjerne hører tale om, som sosiale rettigheter eller «livskvalitet».
Som gjenoppstandelse var den greske kampen for frihet og selvstendighet et bekreftelsesverk til livet som overvinner døden, og som tjene som inspirasjon til hele menneskeheten. Ikke bare fordi detn viser veien til frihet for alle slaver på jorden, men først og fremst fordi den satte frihet over menneskehet. Den viste hva slaveri er i sitt vesen. For grekerne som ledet frigjøringskampen var det også snakk om et angrep på menneskets fornærmelser mot Gud og verden. Som sådan er kampen for frihet et eksplosivt rop om fornektelse av verdens død. I møte med et slikt guddommelig oppdrag ser vi den ultimate forsakelsen av dødens bånd som fornærmer udødelighetens liv.
Bare et så overveldende valg er i stand til å føde dilemmaet «Frihet eller Død», som revolusjonens slagord lød. Bare evighetens levde opplevelse i det skapt er i stand til å forklare oppofrelsen til innbyggerne i Messolonghi som viste hvordan de beleirede kan og må forbli frie (slik det også nevnes i flere av versene i Den greske nasjonalsangen og i diktet Eleftheroi Poliorkimenoi, (Frie Beleirede), av Hellas nasjonaldikter, Dionysios Solomos.
Bare en så dyp tro på det faktum at mennesket ble skapt for å motta Guds nåde og for å tiltrekke hele skapelsen og verden til sin Skaper, er i stand til å tolke og rettferdiggjøre troen på at «en times fritt liv er bedre enn førti år i slaveri og fengsel», som Rigas Ferraios sier i sitt dikt Thourios.
Han som lever i evigheten, er i stand til å tjene uendeligheten selv i et øyeblikk. For ham er en time med fritt liv uforlignelig med en evighet av slaveri, en evighet, det vil si, som ikke har noen bevissthet om seg selv.
Den greske kampen for frihet og selvstendighet er ikke bare en historisk begivenhet. Det er en deltagelse i prosjektet av kontinuerlig indre fornyelse av mennesket, som innebærer den sann befrielse, selvhevdelse, og kristosentrisk inkarnasjon av guddommelighet i mennesket. Denne lærdommen er like viktig i dag, som for 200 år siden.
Text by Øystein Silouan Lid, Pictures by Torbjørn Fink
The majestic rocky Mount Athos, a natural outpost
In this post I reproduce a beautiful article originally published in Norwegian, in the newspaper Dagen, from Bergen. It is about a tribute to Mount Athos, titled: ‘Mirakla i Romarrikets siste utpost‘ (‘The Miraculous Last Outpost of the Roman Empire’), written by the journalist Øystein Silouan Lid, who happened to travel to the Holy Mountain, in May 2016. The English translation was prepared by the author on the occasion of its publication on the portal pemptousia.com, in August 2016. I am grateful to Øystein Silouan Lid for his permission to reproduce it here. The pictures in this post are property of Torbjørn Fink, one of the members of the pilgrims group, to whom I am grateful as well.
The Church of Protaton, in Karyes, the capital of Mount Athos
This summer [2016 -ed.] ten Norwegians were granted an audience at The Holy Mountain, the last remaining part of the Roman Empire. The monks who live here tell stories of miracles and wonders as a normal part of everyday life. Mount Athos has been called the one place on planet earth that has changed least over the centuries. The Orthodox monks who dwell here, live as they did during medieval times, praying and working. They come to dedicate their lives completely to God, and the last thing they want is for the hard-to-reach peninsula to become a tourist attraction. Nevertheless, the monastic republic in northern Greece has a remarkable pull on people from all over the world.
When the famous CBS news magazine 60 minutes in 2009 asked permission to come do a story on The Holy Mountain, the request was categorically denied. It took two years of negotiating before one of the monasteries finally said yes. It was therefore not without trepidation that the Norwegian journalist set foot in Karyes, the administrative centre of Mount Athos, before setting off on foot towards the ancient monastery of Iviron.
East-north view of the Iviron Monastery
The forest on each side of the footpath has a jungle-like appearance. Wild edible peas, dill and oregano grow in several places. Suddenly we notice the wonderful fragrance of incense – the smell is easily recognized from the Orthodox liturgy. Yet here we are, in the middle of the forest, and no one is swinging the censer.
On the path from Karyes to Iviron Monastery
Small signs and wonders such as these happen all the time here on Athos, says Panagiotis Pavlos. He is a scholar of philosophy at the University of Oslo, and presently our local guide. We are not far from the house of saint Paisios (1924-1994), regarded as one of the holiest men of the monastic peninsula. While he was alive people came by the thousands to visit him – on this very path. They were healed from all kinds of diseases, delivered from demons, and received spiritual counsel. It was said that his mere presence could change the hearts of the pilgrims who came to see him, and draw them towards Christ. Panagiotis was himself one of the many people who came to visit the saint’s kellion (monastic cell) in the forest, and is a friend of the monk who lives here today – father Arsenios.
– Christos anesti (Christ is risen)! Panagiotis cries out, and before long a man with a flowing beard is seen in the doorway.
Father Arsenios greets his old friend warmly and the Norwegians politely, before telling a few of the numerous stories of signs and wonders which took place right here in his cabin. A phenomenon father Arsenios tells us about, is the ability of saint Paisios to know what the guests would ask him, before even opening their mouths.
Outside the cabin of Saint Paisios, in Panagouda
– Once, a lawyer came to Mount Athos. He didn’t believe the stories about Paisios, and decided to put him to the test. He planned to present himself as a doctor, instead of a lawyer. When he arrived at the gate he found himself in a group of 50 people who all had come to see the saint. Elder Paisios opened his door, looked the lawyer straight in the eye, and said: “Go away, and take your lies with you to the court room”. The man never doubted again, says father Arsenios.
The kind of Christianity preserved on Athos has a rather unique history. After the capitol of the Roman Empire fell to the occupying Muslim army in 1453, Mount Athos became the last remaining outpost of Imperium Romanum. Already in the year 972 it had been established as a self-governing monastic state within the empire by the emperor John the First, Tzimiskes.
Aproaching Holy Mountain
Today the «Autonomous Monastic State of the Holy Mountain» is the only republic where the banner of the Eastern Roman Empire – the characteristic double eagle – still can be seen waiving in the wind on top of official flag poles.
Mount Athos is today considered to be the spiritual centre of the Orthodox Church. Over 2.000 monks reside in the 20 operative monasteries, having dedicated their lives to prayer for the entire world.
–The monks find the reason behind their monastic calling in the words by Jesus Christ (Matthew 19) regarding a life of celibacy for the sake of the kingdom of God, about selling all belongings, giving to the poor, and following Christ, says father Johannes, the priest in St. Nicholas Orthodox Church in Norway, as well as the spiritual guide of the group.
Fr. Johannes, fr. Seraphim and Øystein Lid, at the south gate of Iviron Monastery
During the stay we live in three-bed, four-bed and eight-bed rooms in different monasteries, and take part in the daily lives of the monks. The services often start at 3 o’clock in the morning, and there are only two daily meals. They are all vegetarian and last for a grand total of ten minutes.
Peaceful evening in the Holy Monastery of Iviron, with its famous Phialê before the Katholikon Church.
The pilgrims thus have more time for conversation and getting to know one another. All of them have a Lutheran background. Two of them, Lars Karlsøen and Bjørn Skauen, have even been priests in The Lutheran state church of Norway. Several of them have sought refuge in the Orthodox Church from what they see as heresy, modernism and worldly influence in Protestantism.
– I experienced that the Norwegian state church no longer had room for me. When I am here on Athos and see the spiritual riches of the Orthodox tradition, I can’t help thinking that Martin Luther made a great mistake in doing away with monasticism. The monasteries are guarantors of right doctrine, and the monks are models for the laymen when it comes to worship and obedience, says Karlsøen.
View to the Aegean, from outside the walls of the Megisti (Greatest) Lavra Monastery
– The first time I visited an Orthodox church the liturgy was in a language I did not understand. Even so, I experienced it and tears started flowing, says Thorleif Grønnestad. He converted over 10 years ago, and is today in charge of typica services in his home town Sandnes.
Still, they do not paint a rosy red picture of the situation in The Orthodox Church. In some places the organization is poor, in others there are issues of nationalism. One of the pilgrims, Dag Markeng, has a striking comment.
Father Johannes (right), the leader of the pilgrims with father Christoforos (left), the Secretary of Iviron Monastery, demonstrating an edition about the Saint Trifon hermitage and scêtê in Hurdal, Norway. In the middle, hierodeacon fr. Serafim with some of the pilgrims.
– When I became Orthodox in 1983, my sponsor said something that I have found to be true. It won’t be easy being Orthodox – but it will be worth it.
One of the richest and most beautiful monasteries we visit, is called Vatopedi, established in the 5th century. Golden coins, gilded chalices and spectacular church art is everywhere. But it is also the home of a great treasure not made from gold, but from camel hair – preserved from the earliest times of Christianity.
– This is the belt of the Virgin Mary, says the monk Evstathios.
The Holy Monastery of Vatopedion.
According to written sources the belt was preserved in Jerusalem until the year 400. After being in Constantinople for some years, it was given to the monastery of Vatopedi as a gift.
– This belt didn’t only perform miracles at one point in history, but to this very day. Every 14th day or so we receive messages from all over the world from people who have been healed or helped after having been in contact with the belt, says father Evstathios.
The Orthodox claim that in the same way as God performed miracles through even the clothes of the apostle Peter (Acts 19, 12), the same thing happens through the belt of the Theotokos. Father Evstathios point to a series of strange stories related to the belt. Especially childless couples are helped, but many different diseases have also been cured.
Monks discussing before the gates of Vatopedion Monastery
– An oncologist from Switzerland came to see us and was given a few bottles of oil. He himself did not believe the stories, but he wanted to conduct some experiments after having heard about the phenomenon. He gave it to all the patients who were close to the terminal phase. Some did not survive, but two of his patients were fully healed. He came back to us in the monastery and told us about it. We don’t know why some are healed and others are not, but we use the oil in faith, and see what God wants to do, says father Evstathios.
Each of the Norwegian pilgrims are given a bottle, and father Johannes are given several – for use in the Orthodox Church in Norway.
Saint Panteleimon Holy Monastery, known as Rôssikon (the Russian).
Towards the end of the stay the Norwegians hear a rumour about a Scandinavian monk at one of the monasteries they were visiting – Karakallou. After having met mostly Greek monks on Athos it makes an impression to meet a monk with glittering blue eyes and a long read beard. Father Prothromos is from Finland, and speaks some Swedish. As it turns out that also he has a Lutheran background.
– How did you become orthodox, father?
– I went into an Orthodox Church one, and was so struck by the liturgy that tears started flowing. I realized immediately that I had to belong here, the monk says, echoing the story many of the Norwegian converts carry with them.
Soon after his conversion 20 years ago, father Prodromos travelled to the Holy Mountain. Now he is head of the guest house in the monastery, and has had to learn several languages.
The Katholikon of the Holy Monastery of Karakallou
– How is life here in the monastery?
– It is very good. Since the monastery of Karakallou is not as large as the others (number 11 on the internal ranking among the 20 monasteries), it is not as busy as some of the rest. So I have plenty of time to focus on prayer, says father Prodromos, reminding us about what really matters in life.
Text by Øystein Silouan Lid, Pictures by Torbjørn Fink & Panagiotis Pavlos
The majestic rocky Mount Athos, a natural outpost.
In this post I reproduce a beautiful article originally published in Norwegian, in the newspaper Dagen, from Bergen. It is about a tribute to Mount Athos, titled: ‘Mirakla i Romarrikets siste utpost‘ (‘The Miraculous Last Outpost of the Roman Empire’), written by the journalist Øystein Silouan Lid, who happened to travel to the Holy Mountain, in May 2016. The English translation was prepared by the author on the occasion of its publication on the portal pemptousia.com, in August 2016. I am grateful to Øystein Silouan Lid for his permission to reproduce it here. Some of the pictures in this post are property of Torbjørn Fink, one of the members of the pilgrims group, to whom I am grateful as well.
The Church of Protaton, in Karyes, the capital of Mount Athos (photo by Torbjørn Fink).
This summer [2016 -ed.] ten Norwegians were granted an audience at The Holy Mountain, the last remaining part of the Roman Empire. The monks who live here tell stories of miracles and wonders as a normal part of everyday life. Mount Athos has been called the one place on planet earth that has changed least over the centuries. The Orthodox monks who dwell here, live as they did during medieval times, praying and working. They come to dedicate their lives completely to God, and the last thing they want is for the hard-to-reach peninsula to become a tourist attraction. Nevertheless, the monastic republic in northern Greece has a remarkable pull on people from all over the world.
When the famous CBS news magazine 60 minutes in 2009 asked permission to come do a story on The Holy Mountain, the request was categorically denied. It took two years of negotiating before one of the monasteries finally said yes. It was therefore not without trepidation that the Norwegian journalist set foot in Karyes, the administrative centre of Mount Athos, before setting off on foot towards the ancient monastery of Iviron.
East-north view of the Iviron Monastery.
The forest on each side of the footpath has a jungle-like appearance. Wild edible peas, dill and oregano grow in several places. Suddenly we notice the wonderful fragrance of incense – the smell is easily recognized from the Orthodox liturgy. Yet here we are, in the middle of the forest, and no one is swinging the censer.
On the path from Karyes to Iviron Monastery. (T.F.)
Small signs and wonders such as these happen all the time here on Athos, says Panagiotis Pavlos. He is a scholar of philosophy at the University of Oslo, and presently our local guide. We are not far from the house of saint Paisios (1924-1994), regarded as one of the holiest men of the monastic peninsula. While he was alive people came by the thousands to visit him – on this very path. They were healed from all kinds of diseases, delivered from demons, and received spiritual counsel. It was said that his mere presence could change the hearts of the pilgrims who came to see him, and draw them towards Christ. Panagiotis was himself one of the many people who came to visit the saint’s kellion (monastic cell) in the forest, and is a friend of the monk who lives here today – father Arsenios.
– Christos anesti (Christ is risen)! Panagiotis cries out, and before long a man with a flowing beard is seen in the doorway.
Father Arsenios greets his old friend warmly and the Norwegians politely, before telling a few of the numerous stories of signs and wonders which took place right here in his cabin. A phenomenon father Arsenios tells us about, is the ability of saint Paisios to know what the guests would ask him, before even opening their mouths.
– Once, a lawyer came to Mount Athos. He didn’t believe the stories about Paisios, and decided to put him to the test. He planned to present himself as a doctor, instead of a lawyer. When he arrived at the gate he found himself in a group of 50 people who all had come to see the saint. Elder Paisios opened his door, looked the lawyer straight in the eye, and said: “Go away, and take your lies with you to the court room”. The man never doubted again, says father Arsenios.
Outside the cabin of Saint Paisios, in Panagouda (T.F.)
The kind of Christianity preserved on Athos has a rather unique history. After the capitol of the Roman Empire fell to the occupying Muslim army in 1453, Mount Athos became the last remaining outpost of Imperium Romanum. Already in the year 972 it had been established as a self-governing monastic state within the empire by the emperor John the First, Tzimiskes.
Today the «Autonomous Monastic State of the Holy Mountain» is the only republic where the banner of the Eastern Roman Empire – the characteristic double eagle – still can be seen waiving in the wind on top of official flag poles.
Mount Athos is today considered to be the spiritual centre of the Orthodox Church. Over 2.000 monks reside in the 20 operative monasteries, having dedicated their lives to prayer for the entire world.
Aproaching the Holy Mountain. (T.F.)
–The monks find the reason behind their monastic calling in the words by Jesus Christ (Matthew 19) regarding a life of celibacy for the sake of the kingdom of God, about selling all belongings, giving to the poor, and following Christ, says father Johannes, the priest in St. Nicholas Orthodox Church in Norway, as well as the spiritual guide of the group.
Fr. Johannes, fr. Seraphim and Øystein Lid, at the south gate of Iviron Monastery.
During the stay we live in three-bed, four-bed and eight-bed rooms in different monasteries, and take part in the daily lives of the monks. The services often start at 3 o’clock in the morning, and there are only two daily meals. They are all vegetarian and last for a grand total of ten minutes.
The pilgrims thus have more time for conversation and getting to know one another. All of them have a Lutheran background. Two of them, Lars Karlsøen and Bjørn Skauen, have even been priests in The Lutheran state church of Norway. Several of them have sought refuge in the Orthodox Church from what they see as heresy, modernism and worldly influence in Protestantism.
– I experienced that the Norwegian state church no longer had room for me. When I am here on Athos and see the spiritual riches of the Orthodox tradition, I can’t help thinking that Martin Luther made a great mistake in doing away with monasticism. The monasteries are guarantors of right doctrine, and the monks are models for the laymen when it comes to worship and obedience, says Karlsøen.
– The first time I visited an Orthodox church the liturgy was in a language I did not understand. Even so, I experienced it and tears started flowing, says Thorleif Grønnestad. He converted over 10 years ago, and is today in charge of typica services in his home town Sandnes.
Still, they do not paint a rosy red picture of the situation in The Orthodox Church. In some places the organization is poor, in others there are issues of nationalism. One of the pilgrims, Dag Markeng, has a striking comment.
– When I became Orthodox in 1983, my sponsor said something that I have found to be true. It won’t be easy being Orthodox – but it will be worth it.
One of the richest and most beautiful monasteries we visit, is called Vatopedi, established in the 5th century. Golden coins, gilded chalices and spectacular church art is everywhere. But it is also the home of a great treasure not made from gold, but from camel hair – preserved from the earliest times of Christianity.
The Holy Monastery of Vatopedion.
– This is the belt of the Virgin Mary, says the monk Evstathios.
According to written sources the belt was preserved in Jerusalem until the year 400. After being in Constantinople for some years, it was given to the monastery of Vatopedi as a gift.
– This belt didn’t only perform miracles at one point in history, but to this very day. Every 14th day or so we receive messages from all over the world from people who have been healed or helped after having been in contact with the belt, says father Evstathios.
The Orthodox claim that in the same way as God performed miracles through even the clothes of the apostle Peter (Acts 19, 12), the same thing happens through the belt of the Theotokos. Father Evstathios point to a series of strange stories related to the belt. Especially childless couples are helped, but many different diseases have also been cured.
– An oncologist from Switzerland came to see us and was given a few bottles of oil. He himself did not believe the stories, but he wanted to conduct some experiments after having heard about the phenomenon. He gave it to all the patients who were close to the terminal phase. Some did not survive, but two of his patients were fully healed. He came back to us in the monastery and told us about it. We don’t know why some are healed and others are not, but we use the oil in faith, and see what God wants to do, says father Evstathios.
Each of the Norwegian pilgrims are given a bottle, and father Johannes are given several – for use in the Orthodox Church in Norway.
Towards the end of the stay the Norwegians hear a rumour about a Scandinavian monk at one of the monasteries they were visiting – Karakallou. After having met mostly Greek monks on Athos it makes an impression to meet a monk with glittering blue eyes and a long read beard. Father Prothromos is from Finland, and speaks some Swedish. As it turns out that also he has a Lutheran background.
– How did you become orthodox, father?
– I went into an Orthodox Church one, and was so struck by the liturgy that tears started flowing. I realized immediately that I had to belong here, the monk says, echoing the story many of the Norwegian converts carry with them.
Soon after his conversion 20 years ago, father Prodromos travelled to the Holy Mountain. Now he is head of the guest house in the monastery, and has had to learn several languages.
– How is life here in the monastery?
– It is very good. Since the monastery of Karakallou is not as large as the others (number 11 on the internal ranking among the 20 monasteries), it is not as busy as some of the rest. So I have plenty of time to focus on prayer, says father Prodromos, reminding us about what really matters in life.
Panagiotis G. Pavlos 